During the early-mid 2000s, there was a time when New York seemed to be at the epicenter of the fashion world. The internet broke down the barriers of the industry, making once exclusive runways accessible to a wider audience. While fashion centers in Europe resisted this democratization, New York embraced it wholeheartedly. It was a glamorous and star-studded affair, with celebrities in the front row, reality shows, designer collaborations for the mass market, bloggers (to some extent), and the iconic fashion tents. However, this era had its limitations and became somewhat one-dimensional.

Over the years, New York Fashion Week has experienced fragmentation and struggles as it tries to redefine itself. As the European luxury market expands and becomes more expensive, commerciality has become a dominant force. In contrast, in New York, it feels like the opposite effect is taking place.

For emerging and independent labels, building a successful business and turning a profit is an incredibly challenging task, mainly because the industry’s traditional infrastructure doesn’t provide much support for emerging talent. This season, both established and emerging labels exude a gritty determination. It’s a quality that is unique to New York City, born from the city’s demanding and relentless hustle.

The timing is ideal for brands to focus on their own identities. According to McKinsey’s “The State of Fashion 2024” report, brands will need to move away from performance marketing and instead concentrate on nurturing personal and emotional connections with customers.

Willy Chavarria and Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada are two designers who have carved their own paths while also understanding how to expand their reach. Chavarria, in particular, has revolutionized American Ivy prep by making it accessible to those who have traditionally been excluded. He has become a beloved figure in the city, offering a fresh perspective. Chavarria’s skillful tailoring, exemplified by his baggy, flowing wool houndstooth trousers or double-breasted jacket with pronounced shoulders, opens up a world of possibilities for individuals who have felt marginalized in the predominantly white world of Americana fashion. In Willy Chavarria’s United States, clothing reflects reality but is filtered through a lens of fantasy, resulting in a unique blend of the provocative and the practical.

On the contrary, Taymour always approaches things with a sense of humor. In her latest collection, she played with the concept of feminine strength by incorporating mini dresses with padded biceps and shoulders. One model even sported psychedelic print shorts while carrying dumbbells made from kombucha squash instead of traditional weights. As always, Taymour’s casting included a diverse mix of her friends and chosen family, with one woman holding a baby and another visibly pregnant. Taymour has consistently stayed true to her vision and commitment to sustainability. She remains unwavering in her principles and has yet to seek external investment for her brand, which can be found at various retailers ranging from Nordstrom to SSENSE.

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New York, typically known for its grey concrete and towering skyscrapers, has undergone a remarkable transformation. As we dive headfirst into the fall/winter 2024 calendar of New York Fashion Week, fashion-forward individuals have been flocking to the streets outside the shows like moths drawn to a flame. Helmut Lang set the tone, while Peter Do presented his second collection for the brand. Do drew inspiration from the iconic designer’s archives, incorporating playful ‘Chinatown bag’ prints, vibrant orange knits, and even the famous bubble wrap jacket, which Do reimagined in luxurious silk.

At Eckhaus Latta, a movement toward minimalism was evident, delivered with an undeniable sensuality. The collection featured knits that accentuated the body, acid wash garments, and strategically placed slashes that revealed just the right amount of skin. For those seeking the irresistible taste of New York cool, Tommy Hilfiger’s show on the first evening of NYFW was the place to be. The runway showcased the brand’s signature pieces such as crewnecks, varsity jackets, and polo shirts, updated with a preppy and essential twist that perfectly aligned with the chic and modern ambiance of its star-studded front row. Rumor has it that Lily van der Woodsen was spotted among the attendees.

On the streets, fashion enthusiasts embraced the sun’s appearance, bidding farewell to heavy coats and furs and opting for lightweight trenches and tailored blazers instead. Playful layering techniques incorporated various textures and vibrant pops of color. Classic patterns like pinstripes and plaids, along with occasional bows, continued to captivate the fashion crowd.

Explore the most fabulous moments of street style from the fall/winter 2024 cycle of New York Fashion Week below, as captured by Phil Oh, capturing the electrifying buzz surrounding it all.

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